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Question:
Fred Kershaw from Sellersville,
Pa
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We have a home built in 1986. The attic has R30 fiberglass insulation. The attic is unused and has no floor so there is room for more insulation. The existing insulation has been stepped on and flattened in maybe 50% of the attic as improvements to the house have been done with electrical work and cable TV wires being run. But still is about 6 or 7" thick. I want to add another R30 unfaced fiberglass to the attic. Is that too much?
Secondly, before I add the insulation I want to seal off the electrical boxes to the flush mounted lights in the ceiling below. To cut down on air flow going right up into the attic. These are not recessed lights. But when I pull back the insulation when the lights are left on for some time, the electrical boxes are pretty warm and almost not touchable. Is it safe to seal these boxes off? And if so, how? I am concerned about using silicon caulk to seal up all the holes around the box and it melting or building up excessive heat. Also the insulation is paperbacked, is that OK? |
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With an insulation of R-30 you are doing good and should not ... |
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Question:
Christine Barta from Oakville,
Ontario, Canada
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I live in a townhouse complex where I pay to maintain the outside of the house and own the inside. We had "new" precast steps delivered where the treads along a row of one of the steps was chipped off. There is also a chip in the center of one of the steps. Is there a way to repair this as they are not going to replace the six step unit that has these chips on them. They have agreed to replace the top three step unit as the finish was blotchy but are not going to replace a brand new unit with chips in it.
What should I ask them to do about the chips? Should new stairs with these defects be repaired or replaced? If they can be repaired what would they do and will it last?
I wish I could send you photos as I have submitted them to the project coordinator for evaluation and the above is their decision.
I just don't want my stairs deteriorating quickly because of preexisting defects. |
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You can repair chipped steps but it seems to me it is more a ... |
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Question:
Bob from Horseheads,
NY
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Hello,
I have searched this site and have found various answers to similar questions on this topic and it has made me more confused than when I started. I am hoping you can clear some of this up for me.
I have concrete steps and wing walls that I want to cover using 1" bluestone for the treads and caps and stone veneer for the risers and remaining vertical surfaces. My first questions is what type of mortar should I use for bonding the blue stone to the steps? 2. Do I use the same mortar for the joints? 3. Should I use any bonding additives with the mortar? 4. Is there any bonding agents I should use on the bare steps prior to laying the blue stone? 5. When doing the stone veneer to the riser, again should I use any type of thinset or bonding agent along with the mortar to help with adhesion?
Thanks so much for the help. I appreciate your response.
Bob |
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Hello Bob,
Ok for adhesives we have two choices. Type N i ... |
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Question:
steve from lake elsinore c,
ca
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Im looking for a hi pressure gas line contractor that is willing to work in barstow Ca.
this line is inside a building and needs to be welded.Do you know one? |
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Hello Steve,
Everycontractor.com has a database of contra ... |
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Question:
Tim from Port Saint Lucie,
FL
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I think that I have a pipe leaking from the main drain, and I wanted to know if I isolate it and seal the cap with silicone and or 2 part epoxy, will that potentially damage anything? |
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That would depend on several factors like where the pipe is ... |
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